Eater's Digest: Las Vegas 7

March 2019
sparrow and wolf / the buffet at wynn / esther's kitchen / the buffet at wynn / tacos el gordo / sweets raku / bacchanal buffet / paid in full / the buffet at wynn / bajamar seafood and tacos / bin 702 / b.b.d.'s / the buffet at wynn / ghost donkey / best friend / eataly / the buffet at wynn / secret pizza



Hot Potato (Sparrow and Wolf)
potato pave, smoked trout roe, chive crème fraîche, sichuan peppercorn

^ I expected it to be crispier.

Steak Tartare (Sparrow and Wolf)
shiitake mushroom, kizami wasabi, confit egg

Braised Lamb Neck (Sparrow and Wolf)
scallion pancakes, pickled vegetable
—Served with fabulous pickled apple.


Caramelized White Chocolate Terrine (Sparrow and Wolf)
flourless chocolate cake, ras el hanout pear butter


(Esther's Kitchen) was named one of Las Vegas' 2018 restaurants of the year.

I was not impressed.

To be fair, I informed my server that I was gonna over order and would probably box up a lot of what I ordered to go, and he heard "I want my order to go," so I did not experience (Esther's Kitchen)'s food properly, consuming it inside the restaurant out of to-go boxes.

Housemade Sourdough Bread (Esther's Kitchen)
anchovy garlic butter
—Butter was good, bread was not warm.

Rye Tagliatelle (Esther's Kitchen)
braised duck, mushroom, green, cracklins
—Did the cracklins get soggy?

Blood Orange Polenta Cake (Esther's Kitchen)
candied kumquats, orange sherbet and caramel


Octopus Chicharron Taco (BajaMar Seafood and Tacos)
lightly-battered fried octopus with pickled onions, cream of tomatillo sauce, cilantro, mozzarella
—The texture of the tortilla was odd. Not soft, but not hard, and not stale.


(Paid in Full) is a rare case of a restaurant improving on second visit.


Tuna/Tots (Paid in Full)
wasabi kewpie, scallion, rice cracker

^ Two of my favourites, raw tuna and tater tots, together.


Crispy Tapioca "Cacio e Pepe" (Paid in Full)
aged parm, tellicherry peppercorn


The P.i.F. Dog [100% Wagyu Beef Katsu Style] (Paid in Full)
katsu sauce, garlic kewpie, house kimchi

^ This thing that tastes like a hot dog is wagyu beef?

Tatooine Sea Breeze (Paid in Full)
cranberry pok pok som, cranberry juice, sprite
—I have become someone who enjoys drinking vinegar.

The Jawa Family Reunion (Paid in Full)
apple pok pok som, apple juice, ginger beer


Okinawan Taco Rice (Paid in Full)
seasoned ground chuck, cheddar, border sauce

^ The Doritos were a curveball.



Flamin' Hot Cheeto Montadito (Bin 702)
house spread, white cheddar

^ I'd eat another one.


Flamin' Hot Cheeto-Crusted Pickle (Bin 702)

^ The Cheeto crust doesn't add anything.


Hot Chicken Piña Colada Sandwich (b.B.d.'s)
spicy fried chicken, house-made piña colada mayo, dill pickles on a sesame seed bun

^ I couldn't discern the piña colada mayo.


Passion Fruit Sunflower (b.B.d.'s)
elderflower, black sesame meringue, pastry cream, sea salt


In addition to a secret pizzeria, The Cosmopolitan now boasts a secret bar that offers nachos especiales such as


Carrot Nachos (Ghost Donkey)
carrot "chili," carrot habanero hot sauce, mezcal pickled carrots, cilantro


I love everything about (Best Friend) except its food. I love its liquor store front concealing a dining room that you enter through industrial strip doors. I love the #008000 tracksuits and #CC8899 jackets that its employees wear. I love drinking from what appears to be a #FF0000 Solo cup.

But its food…

Slippery Shrimp (Best Friend)
crispy rock shrimp, chili mayo, walnuts
—A bland version of (Yang Chow [in Los Angeles])' famous dish.

The Big E from the O.C. (Best Friend)
kimchi fried rice arancini, ikura, ponzu
—Didn't taste like anything.

Shaking Beef Saltado (Best Friend)
filet strips, fries, onions, peppers, cilantro
—The beef was cooked well…


Bomboloni Gianduja (Eataly)
filled with nutella spread


MISSED CONNECTIONS


Wood Fired Lasagna (Sparrow and Wolf)
lamb bolognese, miso, burrata

Chili Cheese Spaghetti (Best Friend)
beef chili, onions, tabasco
—$33 Skyline.

Hundred Dolla Tostada (Best Friend)
kaluga caviar, crema, salsa


Mexican Street Corn Ravioli (Beauty and Essex)
roasted poblano creme, jalapeño, cotija, cilantro

Oxtail Bibimbap (Once)
black mint stew, tacu tacu, plantains, sunny side up egg

Butterscotch Cake (Yardbird)
bacon frosting, butterscotch sauce, vanilla ice cream


Cheesecake Challenge (Guy Fieri's Vegas Kitchen and Bar)
a new york-style marble cheesecake topped with potato chips, pretzels, and hot fudge

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